Legging it to Luang Namtha in the north

In Thailand we had decided not to do one of the treks (otherwise known as tourist circus's) and read that we would have a much better experience in the north of Laos - either Luang Namtha or Muang Sing. So on the toss of a coin we headed from Huay Xai at the border to Luang Namtha. But the adventure started in Huay Xai.

Now that we had visa's and some Kip (Lao currency; US $1 = Kip $9,400) we needed another sawngthaew to take us from the border crossing to the bus station - the right bus station. Here we met Gerald - a great German man travelling by himself throughout Thailand and Laos. Gerlad was bargaining with the sawngthaew driver so we reduced his offer (as there was now 3 of us), made an agreement on the price and headed off in the back of his truck.

By the time we arrived at the bus station (we're not going to use the word "terminal" again as its insulting to all those real bus terminals) it was only 11am. The bus to Luang Numtha was scheduled to depart at 1.30! Oh well... plenty of time to chat and get to know our new friend Gerald. However at 11.30 there was all sorts of commotion around the bus. Tourists were being told to get their packs on the roof of the minibus, locals were putting their sacks of rice, bags of wood and canine animals in the aisles of the bus and everyone was ordered to get on board. Now, in Thailand we were used to everything running to "Thai time" - late. We were soon to learn about "Lao time" - that is when we are full and/ or ready to go, we will! So 2 hours ahead of schedule the bus left the boarder town of Huay Xai and we headed north. Unfortunately for the 2 of us, we chose the seat on top of the rear tyre well - meaning that we felt every single bump in the road. By the time we stopped for a break (3 hours into the trip) Si's bum was numb and legs cramped up under his chin.

Interestingly enough China is funding and building road networks from the north to the south - large, fully sealed roads for the Chinese trucks (full of Chinese manufactured products) to access the ports in Thailand. And not to be outdone, Vietnam is doing the same! So compared to 3 years ago (so an Italian told us) the roads are much better and the journey to Luang Numtha much quicker. It only took us 5 - 6 hours instead of the 10 hour hell ride of the past. But, as we were to continually discover, the "bus terminal" in Laos is typically several kilometers/ miles from the actual town - so we needed to get into yet another sawngthaew for the final journey into Luang Numtha. We think it might have something to do with "sharing the wealth"?? So the entire bus of people fro mthe boarder squeezed into an even smaller bus as we negotiated the fare. Strangely enough the driver wanted total payment up-front?? Like... where were we all going to run to?? Realising that the sawngthaew was not going to move until we paid up, we agreed to pay 1/2 asa deposit... and into town we rode.

Arriving in Luang Numtha reminded us both of some western town - desolate in the afternoon that we arrived. Where was everyone? The town comprised of a new part and an old part nearer to an airport. There seemed to be some form of market area that we dove past on the way in. There were even houses constructed out of brick and concrete (quite surprising actually as all the villages - every village we passed on the roads north - were all made of wood and thatch). But the streets were vacant... except for cats, dogs, chickens, roosters and children!

So, as usual for us we checked into a guesthouse (The Manychan Guesthouse) and went for a wander around the town and to book ourselves into a trek into the jungles and a visit to a number of hill tribes. By the time that was done, the sun was setting behind the mountains and the town was filling up with travellers (back from their treks) and locals (back from the fields). We settled into thge street-front bar/restaurant of our guesthouse and mixed it up with other worldly travellers: Alex from Canada, Ben from Sydney (Pymble), Liam from Ireland, Ginny from the US, Dave from the UK and Mr Hippy from Hawaii and a few locals (who's names I could not pronounce nor remember). Over a few BeerLao's (the best beer to drink in all of S. E. Asia) we all swapped travelling tales of horror bus rides and shocking guesthouses. Needing to fill our stomachs with more than just the liquid amber, we strolled across to the Night Market and indulged in an assortment of local fare; fresh vegetarian rolls/ wraps, eggplant rolls, BBQ'd chicken skewers, boiled eggs, chilli dips, sticky rice and fresh seasonal fruits.