Ho Ho Ho - it IS a Merry Christmas

After nearly two months of packing it through Thailand, Laos, and northern Cambodia, Si had a smug look on his face as he proclaimed that we would be having a ''VERY MERRY'' Christmas indeed.

Basked in dirt and filth from our ardurous and heated bus trip from Kampong Chanang, Si slyly showed the tuk tuk driver the name of the guesthouse we would be staying at in Phnom Penh. The angels sang as we entered the gates of the glorious Raffles La Royal Resort. One of the most exclusive of all their collection. Politely escorting us in and stating , "You look very tired""we were served up fresh squeezed juice in silver tumblers amid a festively decorated "writer's lounge" as our reservation and room was prepared.

How to describe the extravagance, luxury and grandiuer?..... The bathroom was three times as large as any of the rooms we had slept in. Shower, tub, robes, slippers, fancy toiletries, white sheets, puffy pillows, teek floors.. and a generous plate of delicious christmas cookies adorned with a marscarpone santa! I stood in awe for nealry an hour, then felt guilty touching anything due to not wanting to soil the prisitne condition. GLORIOUS!

Dinner on Christmas Eve was quite an experience - just in itself. Instead of eating at one of the several Raffles restaraunts - we hailed a taxi (well... actually it was a private taxi arranged by the Valet) ans went to Malis. This is a critically acclaimed and exquisite Khmere restaraunt in Phnom Penh - beautifully furnished around an outdoor terrace garden with ponds. We sipped on a bottle of Rosé after an apperitif of vodka and lime, and dined on scallops, fish amok and Khmere sweets. Everything was so perfect and presented so finely. Even the bill at the end of the evening (like the silverware) was served in a teak box. Our driver - still waiting patiently for us to complete the endulgence - generously took us on a night-time tour of the ciyt and showed us all the renowned sites - the gaudy US Embassy with its red, white and blue Christmas lights, Independence Monument, The Stupa and the Riverside Bars and Club district.

Our two days- extending to three were pure bliss. A workout room and spa (Nik's dream!), Gormet Buffet breakfast on the veranda each morning, and lounging under the frangapani trees poolside. What a way to enjoy the cheer of the holiday.

Being good all year surely paid off on Christmas, because Santa (Si) was surely kind to us. Dreesed in the best we could salvage from our packs, we started the evening in the reknowned Elepahnt Bar for predinner drinks accompanied by the best salsa and homemade yam chips. Thereafter, we were escroted into the intimate La Royal. Feeling just like christams, a beautiful tree sparkled and a grand piano enlighted with the playing of christmas carols. A four course dinner was presented in true elegance graced with the fine pairing of a South African Red (as recommeneded by the sommilier) and New Zealand Voigner. Pampering at its best!

After such a grand time, we packed up our dusty packs and hailed the tuk-tuk to send off to the coast- Kep.