Sen Monorom - Deisel and dust

Yes, we wer thiose two dirty backpackers - covered from head to toe in a thick layer of fine, red dust. The dust permiated everything! From the soles of our shoes to the insides of our ears and noses... nothing escaped its wrath!


How did we come to be covered in such muck? It all started in Snoul (pleaase read previous post on the wonderful destination tha tisd Snoul). After getting off the Phnom Penh bound bus from Kratie, we were advised (by sign language) that there was no bus going to Sen Monorom. All this despite the fact that we, and two other travellers, were holding bus tickets that clearly stated the destinations name on them. A small Cambodian man, about the age of Yoda, was frantically crossing his arm to make an "X" sign - indicating that there was actually no bus today and that we'd have to go by a pick-up truck. At first Si thought this was just a con job - to get us to pay money for a car ride that we didn't need. Slowly we began to realise that he was genuine (cynicism must be a bi-product of living in big cities) as 9 of us sided up to the designated pick-up truck. We were laughing at the numerous trucks rambling in briming over with mysterious cargo and the locals riding rodeo on the top.


Three hours later- we were the ones joining the rodeo! There was no laughing now! Picture a rusted over pick- up truck with at least 30 boxes of produce, ice, and seafood; three crates of squacking chickens and ducks; a new black scooter; 11 back packs; and 19 passengers hanging on for their lives atop the heap. No safety belts - no seats - no ropes even to hang on to- hey, there wasn't even a road! To provide some sence of savety we were forced to puch holes into the cargo boxes beneath us so that our thumbs had something to give us some grip!


The first two hours consisted of a bumby dirt track through the scrub. The second three hours were a steep climb through the deforseted lands scattered with Chinese pine plantations. Again- just a dust path. Up the steep mountains, the "local chaperones" would jump off the truck just as the truck would start to roll backwards and throw chocks under the wheels to aid us up the terrain. Scarves were draped over our faces to prevent inhalation of the red dust. A few passangers bought meidcal masks to wear for this reason. We have never been dirtier in our entire lives and it looked like we had suddenly gained a wonderful "red" tan over our entire bodies.


Now... to wash off our lovely fake tan we rolled into the celubrious Peci Kiri Guesthouse and paid up for a room with electricity (don't snigger - its a luxury in Sen Monorom), hot water (another luxery in town), a TV with cable and 3 single beds. Yes - it was the last room available and we were too tired, too sore and far too dusty to argue or go in search of another abode. Unfortunately for us the bathroom didn't have any lighting in it, nor did it have any hot water! Aparently there had not been enough electricity to warm the water. So we were graciously provided with 2 buckerts of scolding hot water with wich to bathe in the dark. After this slight let down, we discovered that the TV didn't work - also due to the lack of electricity - and tha twe had a brickworks as a neighbour. late into the night and well into the morning we heard the sound of bricks being loaded and unloaded, stacked and unstacked, arriving and departing trucks. And to top it all off - we had a squeeky gecko in the room to keep us company!

The town comprised of 1 main road - sealed from one end to the other (and the ONLY sealed section for miles and miles around) - and a few smaller roads made of the same red dust. The buildings, the cars and bikes, even the plants had a red tinge to them (well... tinge is probably too weak a word... let's try stain!).

To let our limbs and butts recover, we spent a day relaxing in the "Greenhouse" (a mixture of travel, food, refreshments and internet) which was located right next to a bar appropriately called "Middle of Somewhere". The following day we rented a 250CC Honda Baja and sped off into the red dust again - this time to visit an amazing waterfall and the local villages. During our visit to the watefall we watched as small childern scrambled amidst the rushing waters to gather small Zebra muscles (attached to the rocks). By the end of the day we were, yet again, covered in the film of red dust and enjoyed a refreshing cold shower (HA! not by choice mind you!!) to cleanse our bodies. 3 days was more than enough time to get to grips with the town, the surrounding areas and the filth.

Fortunately for us we discovered that we could get onboard a minivan for the trip out of town - and only had to endure 11 people crammed into the small interior space - not duck or chickens this time as they were heading to Phnom Penh to "stock up" again! So... with everyone crammed in we headed back along the road to hell, bound for some greater sence of civilisation (and we hoped less dust!)